African Violets: A How-To
I don't know why people run into such problems, but I've never had any issues with my violets, and I've seen some pretty sad cases. I make it a point to pick out the saddest, most unhealthy ones I can find at the grocery when I'm in a mood to get one, and I nurse them back to health.
The photo of the violet here and in the previous post is one given to me by my grandmother. It's not in bad condition, but shortly after we got up to the island, my grandfather potted it up in heavy compost from the pile. This is a Bad Idea all around. Why? African violets (Saintpaulina) need light, well-drained, rich soil. Mixes containing sand, perlite, and peat moss along with the topsoil base are usually good choices because the soil particles are varied, which allows water to drain easily and air to circulate. The peat moss holds in moisture while not absolutely drowning the roots, which is beneficial and prevents root rot. Most plants have similar requirements - nutrient rich dirt, but loose enough to allow growth and circulation.
So, I looked at this violet and knew I had to loosen up the soil. Compost has beneficial nutrients, sure, but even nutrient-rich soil won't keep a plant from dying if the roots are choked and continually soggy. Of course, we live in the middle of the woods and it wasn't prudent at the time to run into town to get some dirt for two bitty violets, so I made my own. How? Creativity!
Step 1.
Remove the violet from its pot by putting one hand around the base of the plant, and tipping the pot upside down. This prevents root damage and gets the violet out with as little trauma as possible. (This is a good technique to use when transplanting anything out of a pot.) In my case, I then had to dodge falling shards of terracotta that had been placed in the bottom of the pot as allowance for drainage.
If it's pot-bound, you'll need to loosen the root ball a bit, since most plants need some convincing that they have room to grow or they'll choke. This violet had been pot-bound and placed into a larger pot without the root ball being loosened - not only would the roots have rotted, it probably would have been choked to death.
How do you loosen the roots? How can you even tell if it's pot-bound? If you see a whole lot of roots that had previously been pressed up against the sides and bottom of the pot, it's likely pot-bound. To loosen, lightly tease some of the roots apart using your fingers. Don't do too much - the point is to get the roots growing into the extra space they'll have in their new spot.
I removed the excess compost from around the roots and put it into a handy bucket, loosened the roots a little, and set the plant aside.
Step 2.
Go foraging! The goal here was to get some big particles into the compost base I had and lighten it up. Of course, there was no perlite or peat moss to hand, so I substituted some sandy gravel from the lake shore in front of the house and some dry leaves from the previous fall, shredded up. For good measure, I took some topsoil and leaf litter from the cedars on the property, and some ashes/charcoal from our fire pit. I'd say the ratio came out to 2 parts compost and shredded leaves, one part sand/gravel, one part topsoil/leaf litter, and maybe half a part of ashes. Generally, you're looking for a mix that's light and fluffy when dry and retains moisture but doesn't clump together when wet. This is very important, since violet roots are so delicate.
Step 3.
Prep the pot. Violets need drainage, so it's a good idea to put some gravel in the bottom of the pot. I put about two inches, using stones the size of my thumb or so. Violets also do best in high-humidity environments, and this is easily accomplished using a drip pan and some more gravel. Put about an inch of gravel in the drip pan and add water to just below the top of the gravel. The point is to allow the water to evaporate around the plant while not allowing the pot to touch the water so you avoid soggy roots.
Step 4.
Add the plant! You'll want the crown - that's where the stems meet the roots - of the plant to sit slightly above the rest of the soil in the pot, since violet leaves tend to wither and rot with soil contact. It's okay to press the soil in after you've filled the pot- this won't hurt the plant. Just don't press too hard!
With Regard to Watering
Violets will show you when they really need water, but by the time they're showing it they'll often have sustained some damage and won't recover from it. Don't let the soil dry out entirely between waterings - water when the surface of the soil is starting to feel a little more fluffy than damp. Time between waterings is variable to the size of the plant, the environment, the type of pot you're using, and the soil mix, so it's best to check daily until you have a general idea of when your violet needs water. I aim for two to three days between waterings - if the soil stays damp longer than that, the roots sometimes start to rot, and it's a good idea to cut back the amount of water you're using. Typically, I pour until water starts dripping out the bottom of the pot - be sure not to get any water on the leaves or flowers! If you do, dab it off with a tissue, or the water drops will cause the leaf to discolor where it got wet or the flowers to rot.**
With Regard To Pot Size
Typically, aim for a pot with a diameter only slightly larger than the diameter of your plant's leaves. If you go much larger, the soil will retain too much moisture and won't drain well, and the roots will rot. It's a good idea to transplant every year or two, unless the plant doesn't need it - slightly pot-bound is tolerable, while excessive = death. An occasional root-check won't hurt the plant, so don't be afraid to check the roots if you think it might need a repotting.
With Regard to Sunlight and Temperature
African violets do not tolerate direct sunlight. It's best to keep them in a place that's brightly lit, but without any direct sun exposure. I often keep mine in a partially shaded area on the patio, or in a bright (south-facing?) window.
These plants, of course, won't tolerate frost. I've seen them tolerate 60*F temperatures or so, but any less and they start declining or dying outright.
General Tips
People will tell you violets need to be fertilized with every watering. I do not agree. If you're not careful, you'll over-fertilize and essentially poison your violet. I often use slow-release fertilizer or plant food in pellet form, applied around the roots whenever I transplant or, alternatively, once a year or so. Keep in mind that violets will not typically flower continuously, so don't panic if it stops putting out flowers! They'll often wait a while after a traumatic event (like a transplant) to put out flowers again. I usually dead-head my violet's spent blooms to extend the blooming time, and with the slow-release fertilizer they'll often keep blooming all year. To dead-head, pinch right underneath the blossom. Violets will put out more flowers from nodes on the stalk, so if you pinch the entire thing back you might miss out. Once that particular stalk is finished flowering, it'll begin to die back and you can pinch it off.
Do. Not. Touch. The leaves are fuzzy. They're tempting. Restrain yourself and others, and your violet will be happy.
Sometimes, your violet's leaves will get dust or dirt on them - use a painbrush or something similar to get it off, or just gently blow off the debris.
That's all, really. It seems like a lot - but all you need to do is get the plant started and leave it alone, save for watering and cleanup. Once you've spent some time with these plants, it begins to come intuitively. Have no fear!
And if it does die, get another and try again. Surely nobody can criticize you for trying...but then again, who says anybody needs to know, right?
**Interestingly, I've had some cultivars that had waxy leaves under the fuzz and blossoms that seemed impervious to water. Water on the leaves didn't bother it. Then again, some types like the cultivar pictured absolutely will not tolerate it.
